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   Tuesday, Feb. 9, 2010 Travel Concierge    

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ANGUILLA - Blanchard's
   Contemporary, Over $30, Meads Bay
  
  This absolutely delightful restaurant, a mecca for foodies, is considered to be one of the best in the Caribbean, if not the world. Proprietors Bob and Melinda Blanchard moved to Anguilla from Vermont in 1994 to fulfill their island restaurant dream. A festive atmosphere pervades the handsome airy white room, which is accented with floor-to-ceiling teal blue shutters to let in the breezes and colorful artworks by the Blanchards' son Jesse on the walls. A masterful combination of creative cuisine, an upscale atmosphere, attentive service, and an excellent wine cellar (including a selection of aged spirits) pleases the star-studded crowd. The nuanced contemporary menu is ever-changing, but always delightful; house classics like corn chowder, lobster cakes, or a Caribbean fish sampler are crowd pleasers. For dessert, concoctions like the key lime "pie-in-a-glass" or the justly famous "cracked coconut" will be remembered long after your suntan has faded. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun., Aug.-mid-Oct. No lunch.
  
  Address: Meads Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6100
  
  
  
ANGUILLA - Cedar Grove Cafe
   Contemporary, $20 to Over $30, Rendezvous Bay
  
  Along with the Blanchards, the Gumbs family jumpstarted Anguilla's reputation as a gastronomic destination, and this breeze-swept, colonnaded terrace eatery at the Rendezvous Bay Hotel exemplifies their recipe for success. Everything, including the bread, is prepared on-site daily. Chef Smoke (who also oversees the wondrously refined Koal Keel, which reopened in late 2004) seduces diners with creative Caribbean-meets-Pacific Rim fare. Perfectly prepared, exquisitely presented standouts include teriyaki-ginger marinated tuna with Chinese vegetables and a sesame soy infusion, and tempura lobster tails with leeks and zucchini in Chardonnay-butter sauce. The extensive wine list is miraculously priced. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sept.-Nov.
  
  Address: Rendezvous Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6549
  
ANGUILLA - Covecastles
   Contemporary, Over $30, Shoal Bay West
  
  Elegant, intimate dinners are served here in a garden overlooking beautiful Shoal Bay. Each season, Dominique Thevenet devises a new menu, innovatively mating French culinary traditions with Caribbean ingredients. Savory examples might include phyllo stuffed with warm goat cheese, truffle honey, and roasted hazelnuts; tuna tartare with citrus sauce; or pan-seared lobster in bordelaise sauce. Villa guests receive priority for the seven tables, so call for reservations well in advance. Reservations essential. AE, D. Closed Sept.-Nov. No lunch.
  
  Address: Shoal Bay West, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6801
  
  
ANGUILLA - English Rose
   Caribbean, $8 to $20, The Valley
  
  Lunch finds this neighborhood hangout packed with locals: cops flirting with sassy waitresses, entrepreneurs brokering deals with politicos, schoolgirls in lime-green outfits doing their homework. The decor is not much to speak of, but this is a great place to eavesdrop or people-watch while enjoying island-tinged specialties like beer-battered shrimp, jerk chicken Caesar salad, snapper creole, and baked chicken. MC, V. Closed Sun.
  
  Address: Main St., The Valley, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-5353
  
ANGUILLA - Hibernia
   Contemporary, $20 to Over $30, Island Harbour
  
  Some of the island's most creative dishes are served in this wood-beam cottage restaurant overlooking the water. Unorthodox yet delectable culinary pairings -- inspired by chef-owner Raoul Rodriguez's continuing travels from France to the Far East -- include foie gras with fig-apple relish, and Asian mushroom soup topped with cream of cauliflower as starters. Among the creative entrées are cardamom-infused pan-seared rolls of sliced beef filled with shiitake mushrooms and leeks, a Thai casserole of crayfish (out of the shell) with steamed rice noodles in basil and coconut milk, and pan-grilled snapper fillet with ginger mousse filling served with a wasabi emulsion sauce. The painterly presentations echo Raoul's and wife Mary Pat O'Hanlon's other love, art; their travels also glean marvelous pieces on display in the restaurant and adjacent gallery. AE, MC, V. May-Nov.: closed Mon. and Tues., no lunch Thurs.-Tues., Dec.-Apr.: closed Mon., no lunch Sun. and Mon. Restaurant closed Aug. and Sept.
  
  Address: Island Harbour, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-4290
ANGUILLA - Kemia
   Eclectic, $12 to $30, Maundays Bay
  
  Cap Juluca's seaside "hors d'oeuverie" looks like a posh pasha's oasis transported to the Caribbean. Arches, tables, and lamps are embedded with jewel-like mosaic and colored glass; cushy throw pillows and billowing tent ceilings complete the setting. Chef Vernon Hughes prepares a truly global selection of small tapaslike plates that are perfect for sharing in this romantic fantasy at the edge of the cerulean waves. Sushi, dumplings, satays, Spanish-style shrimp in garlic butter, tiny pots of curries, rare Thai beef salad -- its all delicious. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. and Sept. and Oct. No lunch May-Nov.
  
  Address: Cap Juluca, Maundays Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 888/858-5822 in U.S.; 264/497-6666
ANGUILLA - Le Bistro Phil
   French, $20 to Over $30, South Hill
  
  The best seats at this arcaded, Parisian-style bistro practically teeter on a cliff overlooking Sandy Ground. Although the menu emphasizes standards (veal parmigiana with Parma ham, pizzas, and pastas), don't neglect such creative dishes as pan-seared tuna steak in an herb reduction, or sautéed medallions of lobster in sundried-tomato-crayfish sauce. Finish it off with one of the many after-dinner libations and a Cubano. MC, V. Closed Sun. and Aug. and Sept. No lunch.
  
  Address: South Hill, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6810
  
ANGUILLA - Madeariman Beach Club
   French, $8 to $30, Anguilla
  
  Fans of St. Barth will feel right at home at this casual, feet-in-the sand bistro right on busy, beautiful Shoal Bay. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the soups, salads, pizzas, and simple grills here are served with a bit of French flair. Come for lunch and stay to lounge on the beach chaises, or bar-hop between here and Uncle Ernie's BBQ next door. www.madeariman.com. AE, MC, V.
  
  Address: Shoal Bay East, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-5750
  
ANGUILLA - Malliouhana
   French, $20 to Over $30, Meads Bay
  
  Sparkling crystal and fine china, exquisite service, a wonderful 25,000-bottle wine cellar, and a spectacularly romantic candlelit, open-air room complement exceptional haute French cuisine rivaling any in the French West Indies -- or anywhere else in the world. Consulting chef Michel Rostang, renowned for his exceptional Paris bistros, and chef Alain Laurent revamp the menu seasonally, brilliantly incorporating local ingredients in both classic and contemporary preparations. The ultimate in hedonism is sipping champagne as the setting sun triggers a laser show over the bay, before repairing to your table. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sept. and Oct.
  
  Address: Meads Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6111
  
ANGUILLA - Mango's
   Contemporary, Over $30, Anguilla
  
  One meal at Mango's and you'll understand why it's a perennial favorite of repeat visitors to Anguilla. Sparkling-fresh fish specialties have the starring roles on the menu here, and even the simplest preparations, such as the spicy grilled whole snapper, are deliciously perfect. Save room for dessert -- the warm apple tart and the homemade sorbets are worth the splurge. There's an extensive wine list, and the Cuban cigar humidor is a luxurious touch. The proprietor, a former New Jerseyian known island-side as "Mango Dave," keeps a watchful eye over his chic, stylish domain -- and over his clientele, a veritable People Magazine spread in high season. Excellent local live music with dinner several nights a week adds to the cheerful, partylike atmosphere. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Tues. No lunch.
  
  Address: Barnes Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6479
  
ANGUILLA - Overlook
   Caribbean, $20 to Over $30, South Hill
  
  Perched on a cliff high above the bustling harbor of Sandy Ground, Chef Dion Thomas' popular and friendly eatery showcases flavorful dishes that combine local and continental cuisine with a sure hand and a distinct flair. This cheerful, casual joint, painted in orange and blue, is decorated in island art. Soups stand out: try the carrot and apple or pumpkin to start, or perhaps a refreshingly brash gazpacho topped with a basil-worcestershire granité. At dinner, main courses like roasted grouper curry with coconut-mango chutney or braised goat with fragrant rice and peas reflect local flavors, while international touches yield such dishes as oven-crisp duck with chambord sauce or roasted rack of lamb with rosemary and eggplant tomato ragout. Closed in summer, when Thomas cooks for lucky fans on Martha's Vineyard. Reservations are recommended. AE, MC, V. Closed May-Oct.
  
  Address: Back St., South Hill, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-4488
  
ANGUILLA - Picante
   Tex-Mex, $8 to $20, Anguilla
  
  This casual, bright-red roadside Caribbean taqueria, opened by a young Californian couple in 2004, is a refreshing addition to the Anguilla restaurant scene. Huge tasty burritos with a choice of fillings, fresh warm tortilla chips with first-rate guacamole, and tequila-lime chicken grilled under a brick are all sure bets. Mexican chocolate pudding makes a great choice for dessert. Seating is at picnic tables; the friendly proprietors cheerfully supply pillows on request. Reservations are recommended. AE, MC, V. Closed Tues. No lunch.
  
  Address: West End Rd., West End, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/498-1616
  
  
ANGUILLA - Pimms
   Contemporary, $20 to Over $30, Maundays Bay
  
  Local chef George Reid weaves culinary magic in an enchanted setting at Cap Juluca. The most coveted tables are so close to the water that you can actually see fish darting about as you dine. Reid's innovative fare is globally inspired haute Caribbean, and the menu includes such creations as pan seared foie gras with English pea risotto, tagine of pompano with preserved lemon, and smoked sesame crusted salmon with vanilla bean sauce. A sterling wine list complements the menu (look for regular winemaker dinners). Your perfect meal could end with aged rum and a pre-Castro Cubano from G. M. Eustace "Guish" Guishard's personal selection. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Sept. and Oct. No lunch.
  
  Address: Cap Juluca, Maundays Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6666
  
ANGUILLA - Smokey's
   Barbecue, $8 to $20, Anguilla
  
  There's no sign, so you'll have to ask the way to Cove Bay to find this quintessential Anguillian beach barbecue, part of the Gumbs family mini-empire of authentic and delicious eateries. Honey ribs, salt fish cakes, curried chicken roti, and grilled lobsters are paired with local staple side dishes: rice and peas (beans), spiced-mayonnaise coleslaw, and hand-cut sweet potato strings. If your idea of the perfect summer lunch is a roadside Maine lobster roll, be sure to try the version here, served on a home-baked roll with a hearty kick of hot sauce. The dinner menu includes crayfish tails and chicken in orange sauce. On Saturday afternoons a popular local band, the Musical Brothers, enlivens the casual, laid-back atmosphere. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon., except during winter holiday season.
  
  Address: Cove Rd., Cove Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-6582
  
ANGUILLA - Straw Hat
   Contemporary, $20 to Over $30, Forest
  
  Seven picture windows frame seascapes, from floodlighted coral reefs to fishing flotillas, from this covered dock built on pilings directly over the water. By night, the lights of St. Martin and St. Barth twinkle in the distance. Sophisticated and original food is a feisty symphony of local, Asian, and Mediterranean elements. Start with tangy red snapper seviche tinged with local chilies, or the house special mussels steamed in garlic cream sauce. A rare duck breast in mango ginger demi-glace with fried plantains is inspired; fish dishes are so fresh they might have been swimming hours before they hit your plate. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.
  
  Address: Forest Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-8300
  
ANGUILLA - Tasty's
   Caribbean, $12 to $30, Anguilla
  
  Once your eyes adjust to the quirky kiwi, lilac, and coral color scheme, you'll find that breakfast, lunch, or dinner at Tasty's is, well, very tasty. Chef-owner Dale Carty trained at Malliouihana, and his careful, confident preparation bears the mark of French culinary training, but the menu is classic Caribbean. It's worth leaving the beach at lunch for the lobster salad here. A velvety pumpkin soup garnished with roasted coconut shards is superb, as are the seared jerked tuna appetizer and the garlic-infused marinated conch salad. Yummy desserts end meals on a high note. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Thurs.
  
  Address: On main road in South Hill, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-2723
  
ANGUILLA - Trattoria Tramonto & Oasis Beach Bar
   Italian, $20 to Over $30, Shoal Bay West
  
  The island's only Italian restaurant features a dual (or dueling) serenade of Bocelli on the sound system and gently lapping waves a few feet away. Chef Valter Belli artfully adapts recipes from his home in Emilia-Romagna. Try the delicate lobster ravioli in truffle-cream sauce; for dessert, don't miss the tiramisu. Though you might wander in here for lunch after a swim, when casual dress is accepted, you'll still be treated to the same impressive menu. You can also choose from a luscious selection of champagne fruit drinks, a small but fairly priced Italian wine list, and homemade grappas. Denzel Washington celebrated his 50th birthday here along with such close friends as Robert De Niro and Sean "P. Diddy" Combs. Reservations essential. MC, V. Closed Mon. and Sept. and Oct.
  
  Address: Shoal Bay West, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-8819
  
ANGUILLA - Zara's
   Eclectic, $12 to Over $30, Upper Shoal Bay
  
  Chef Shamash presides at this cozy restaurant with beamed ceilings, terra-cotta floors, colorful artworks, and poolside seating. His kitchen turns out tasty fare that combines Caribbean and Italian flavors with panache. Standouts include a velvety pumpkin soup with coconut milk, lemon pasta scented with garlic, herbed rack of lamb served with a roasted apple sauce, and spicy fish fillet steamed in banana leaf. AE, D, MC, V.
  
  Address: Allamanda Beach Club, Upper Shoal Bay, Anguilla
  Phone: 264/497-3229

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